(Started in Jerusalem...Finished in London):
My bags are packed and I'm in my favourite coffee place having an ice 'Limonana' (lemonade with fresh mint - yum) reflecting on the last two months. My taxi is coming in an hour...
It's been life changing and life affirming. Parts have been hard and parts have been emotional. I have moved forward in so many ways but ironically, I am coming back with as much trepidation about going home as I had about coming here in the first place. I have been learning and been challenged constantly - about Israel, about people, about my history, my values and of course, my future. I have loved it all.
Living here, particularly in the last few weeks, has an amazing way of helping to put everything into perspective. Everyone seems to know what's really important, what matters. Here, you are making life-death decisions on a daily or even hourly basis. Ein Baya, "It doesn't matter", is a national catchphrase.
I loved Pardes (the place where I was studying) and finishing my course last Thursday was quite overwhelming. I was surprised by how much I much I had covered in just three weeks - and in awe of how little I had done at the same time. As someone in my class (a successful international lawyer) said "I feel I need to check myself into Yeshiva for the next 10 years".
I spent my last Shabbat in Jerusalem with friends, new and old. I tried to have the real 'Yerushalmi' (Jerusalemite) experience by going to Machne Yehuda, the main market in Jerusalem, to do the food shopping, followed by a very spiritual Kabbalat Shabbat service at Yakar, a small shul (synagogue) close to where I live. All ten dinner guests helped to prepare the meal, including a guy who made absolutely divine homemade challot (Girls, let me know if any of you want his number: He's from Chicago, but living in the NY area - was an actor but is now a cantorial student...!). As we were singing zmirot until the early hours, I realised that all the silver, crystal and china in the world can't make up for true ruach (spirit) and the feeling of being totally happy. And it almost goes without saying that the night finished with the proverbial visit to the Kotel (Western Wall) at 1am.
On Sunday I went to spend two lovely days in Herzlyia with Ruth and Anthony - which was great for my tan, but not so great for my waistline. But as we sat by the pool and in the restaurants, with army choppers and fighter jets flying over head, it was difficult to forget what was going on 50 miles up the road in Haifa.
Back in Jerusalem, I spent the last few days soaking up its unique atmosphere and doing some of my favourite things one more time, including doing my bit for the Israeli economy.
***
So, this is where I end my blog and start seeing you all in person to tell you more about my trip and my experiences. Some customary thank yous: To those of you in Israel who looked after me with unconditional warmth during the last two months and helped make my sabbatical trip so special and to those of you in England who kept in touch and especially those of who you came to see me. And to those in both places who have given me so much advice, guidance and support through it all - I love you all lots.
Yala, bye.
Thursday, July 27, 2006
Monday, July 17, 2006
Ha'Matzav
So, the situation, the matsav in Israel is a little tense at the moment.
As I sit in a coffee shop in Jerusalem watching history unfold in front of me, I am proud to be here living and sharing in what is going on. My sense of belonging here is strengthened by the hour as I follow the developments and get utterly frustrated at the way the "situation" is being reported outside of Israel. Somewhere along the line the major international news agencies seem to have forgotten that it was Israeli soldiers that were kidnapped first and Katushas which were fired at Israeli towns first. I wonder what action Britain would take if rockets began falling on London and soldiers were captured from inside its borders?
There is no doubt that these are serious times and as families across the north of Israel and in the south too, spend another night in bomb shelters, I pray that the situation is resolved quickly and that the missing soldiers are returned to their families as soon as possible.
Although there are some students from my course have brought their flights forward, in Jerusalem life is carrying on pretty much as normal...
Last Thurdsay, I did something I had been meaning to do since I arrived - I visited Gush Etzion, a collection of settlements south of Jerusalem. I took the bulletproof bus from Jerusalem's central bus station to Efrat and amazingly the 45 minute journey cost me 5.90 shekels (about 70 pence). I went to vist Reut, the girl I had been helping when I was working at Neve Michael. She lives in Efrat, a large and well established settlement, but she took me on a tour of some other smaller communities: Alon Shvut, Bat Eyin and Kfar Etzion. Political beliefs aside, these are beautiful, very close knit communities, and in many ways the Zionist pioneers of the 21st century.
On Friday morning, I organised a tour for a small group from Pardes, of the ultra-orthodox neighbourhoods of Jerusalem which was really fascinating. Although I have been to Mea Shearim before, it was amazing to have an insight into the history and sociology of such a closed sect thanks to our tour guide Rabbi Julian Sinclair (of Cambridge uni fame). One thing he said really struck me, as we stood in front of a building which he said summed up the area: On the ground floor a cheder, a religious school for children; on the second floor the mikvah, the ritual baths used to keep the laws of family purity; and on the top floor the Bet Din, the religious court. Post-Holocaust, the ultra-orthodox communities which had previously flourished across eastern Europe, were totally desimated and were forced to distill their values down to their bare minimum and begin rebuilding in a new country. This building symbolised the three things which the charedi, religious, communities of Mea Shearim felt were the most important in their survival: education, family and the law of Torah as the framework for life.
Since I last wrote I've als seen three films at the Jerusalem film festival, bought my first Talmud, sampled more of Jerusalem's eateries and spent a very special Shabbat with friends from my course. I have also been attending classes and am learning a huge amount and being inspired and challenged in new ways each day.
Thank you to those of you who have e-mailed and called to check I am okay. Thank Gd I am safe here and continue to make the most of every moment (eating more roggelach than you can imagine!).
Loads of love from Jerusalem x
As I sit in a coffee shop in Jerusalem watching history unfold in front of me, I am proud to be here living and sharing in what is going on. My sense of belonging here is strengthened by the hour as I follow the developments and get utterly frustrated at the way the "situation" is being reported outside of Israel. Somewhere along the line the major international news agencies seem to have forgotten that it was Israeli soldiers that were kidnapped first and Katushas which were fired at Israeli towns first. I wonder what action Britain would take if rockets began falling on London and soldiers were captured from inside its borders?
There is no doubt that these are serious times and as families across the north of Israel and in the south too, spend another night in bomb shelters, I pray that the situation is resolved quickly and that the missing soldiers are returned to their families as soon as possible.
Although there are some students from my course have brought their flights forward, in Jerusalem life is carrying on pretty much as normal...
Last Thurdsay, I did something I had been meaning to do since I arrived - I visited Gush Etzion, a collection of settlements south of Jerusalem. I took the bulletproof bus from Jerusalem's central bus station to Efrat and amazingly the 45 minute journey cost me 5.90 shekels (about 70 pence). I went to vist Reut, the girl I had been helping when I was working at Neve Michael. She lives in Efrat, a large and well established settlement, but she took me on a tour of some other smaller communities: Alon Shvut, Bat Eyin and Kfar Etzion. Political beliefs aside, these are beautiful, very close knit communities, and in many ways the Zionist pioneers of the 21st century.
On Friday morning, I organised a tour for a small group from Pardes, of the ultra-orthodox neighbourhoods of Jerusalem which was really fascinating. Although I have been to Mea Shearim before, it was amazing to have an insight into the history and sociology of such a closed sect thanks to our tour guide Rabbi Julian Sinclair (of Cambridge uni fame). One thing he said really struck me, as we stood in front of a building which he said summed up the area: On the ground floor a cheder, a religious school for children; on the second floor the mikvah, the ritual baths used to keep the laws of family purity; and on the top floor the Bet Din, the religious court. Post-Holocaust, the ultra-orthodox communities which had previously flourished across eastern Europe, were totally desimated and were forced to distill their values down to their bare minimum and begin rebuilding in a new country. This building symbolised the three things which the charedi, religious, communities of Mea Shearim felt were the most important in their survival: education, family and the law of Torah as the framework for life.
Since I last wrote I've als seen three films at the Jerusalem film festival, bought my first Talmud, sampled more of Jerusalem's eateries and spent a very special Shabbat with friends from my course. I have also been attending classes and am learning a huge amount and being inspired and challenged in new ways each day.
Thank you to those of you who have e-mailed and called to check I am okay. Thank Gd I am safe here and continue to make the most of every moment (eating more roggelach than you can imagine!).
Loads of love from Jerusalem x
Tuesday, July 11, 2006
Yerushalyim
I've been suffering from severe case of blog-guilt for the last few days. I understand this is a common complaint among bloggers, induced by the pressure of finding the content for and writing regular posts. I know this entry is well-overdue.
I have been back in Jerusalem for about 10 days now and it's been non-stop: moving into my apartment, starting my studies at Pardes, seeing various visitors from London, sightseeing, partying and a bout of tonsillitis thrown in for good measure (which I am just recovering from).
It has been a real pleasure ‘living’ in Jerusalem. I am so excited to have the key to an apartment here and it’s a great feeling to own a few hundred square feet in this city – even if it is only temporary. I am also enjoying grocery shopping in a supermarket where everything is kosher. I tell you it makes things a lot quicker when you don’t need to read the list of ingredients on every packet you pick up – and it’s a real novelty to have the pick of the cheese counter.
The location of my flat couldn’t be better. In the mornings I have a 15 minute walk in the sunshine to where my course is, past lots of cute shops and coffee places. This is what everyone’s commute should be like, right?
Pardes. It turns out, there is so much learn about everything, and each day I am reminded that I know even less. There are about 100 students on the July summer programme: 93 are from North America, there is one other Brit, three Australians, one Argentinean and a German, all between the ages of about 21 – 75 years old and from a whole range of backgrounds. I think this is what really makes Pardes special compared to some other seminaries and yeshivot. The teaching is brilliant and I have chosen a mixture of classes: Beginners Talmud (Masechet Brachot, Chapter 4 - the one on Amidah, if you’re interested); A class on four of Maimonides’ 13 principles; and ‘Why bad things happen to good people?’.
Classes are from 8.45am – 5.00pm, Sunday to Thursday lunchtime, so the days are long and weeks are full. But I am keen not just to do “Pardes” while I am here. My evenings, nights and early hours have been spent seeing other bits of Jerusalem. Various friends’ trips to Israel have meant that as well as catching up on all the gossip in the last two editions of the JC, I have had an excuse to try out some of the really good restaurants in town.
I have been back in Jerusalem for about 10 days now and it's been non-stop: moving into my apartment, starting my studies at Pardes, seeing various visitors from London, sightseeing, partying and a bout of tonsillitis thrown in for good measure (which I am just recovering from).
It has been a real pleasure ‘living’ in Jerusalem. I am so excited to have the key to an apartment here and it’s a great feeling to own a few hundred square feet in this city – even if it is only temporary. I am also enjoying grocery shopping in a supermarket where everything is kosher. I tell you it makes things a lot quicker when you don’t need to read the list of ingredients on every packet you pick up – and it’s a real novelty to have the pick of the cheese counter.
The location of my flat couldn’t be better. In the mornings I have a 15 minute walk in the sunshine to where my course is, past lots of cute shops and coffee places. This is what everyone’s commute should be like, right?
Pardes. It turns out, there is so much learn about everything, and each day I am reminded that I know even less. There are about 100 students on the July summer programme: 93 are from North America, there is one other Brit, three Australians, one Argentinean and a German, all between the ages of about 21 – 75 years old and from a whole range of backgrounds. I think this is what really makes Pardes special compared to some other seminaries and yeshivot. The teaching is brilliant and I have chosen a mixture of classes: Beginners Talmud (Masechet Brachot, Chapter 4 - the one on Amidah, if you’re interested); A class on four of Maimonides’ 13 principles; and ‘Why bad things happen to good people?’.
Classes are from 8.45am – 5.00pm, Sunday to Thursday lunchtime, so the days are long and weeks are full. But I am keen not just to do “Pardes” while I am here. My evenings, nights and early hours have been spent seeing other bits of Jerusalem. Various friends’ trips to Israel have meant that as well as catching up on all the gossip in the last two editions of the JC, I have had an excuse to try out some of the really good restaurants in town.
Famous sculpture in the Israel Museum sculpture garden: Ahava (Love), by Robert Indiana
I am going to a couple of films at the Jerusalem film festival this week and have planned some interesting day trips which hopefully I can tell you about in the next updates.
***
I couldn’t write this post without mentioning Alan Senitt z'l who I have been thinking about so much since Sunday. I am sure you will have all heard by now, the devastating and shocking news about his attack in Washington D.C. Before the summer we were both working in Westminster and were in touch before starting our respective trips abroad. I knew Alan through UJS and was always in total admiration about is ability to appear calm and smiling all the time. He definitely found his calling and was a total natural at what he did. There will definitely be a void in the Anglo-Jewish community without him, but it is undoubtedly so much richer for what he contributed to it. I will really miss him.